The Chilkoot Trail- June 2008

Well, this is a bit late in coming, but Im not stressed (see previous mail about not getting stressed over NOT blogging!).


This June, I finally accomplished something Ive been wanting to do for years. Myself, along with Mike, and 4 other friends, hiked the 33 mile, 4 day Chilkoot trail, in S.E. Alaska. The trail starts near Skagway AK and ends in Bennett, British Columbia. The trail traces the same route the gold seekers took during the famous Klondike Gold Rush at the turn of the Century. To give a bit of history:

In 1897, the steamship Portland steamed into Seattle carrying a ton of gold from the Klondike. This sparked the Yukon gold rush. Over the next 3 years 100,000 gold seekers would make there way from Dyea in southeast Alaska into the Yukon Territory via one of two mountain passes. Of those, only 1000 would ever make any money... only 200 would strike it rich. Ironically, those 200 who struck it rich had already done so upon the arrival of the Portland's news in Seattle in 1897.

Today, Alaskan locals and tourists alike, still make the journey by foot.

Kristin named us the "Chill-Kooters" because, of course, every great team must have a name.

We did the 33 miles in 4 days, 3 nights. The trail was incredibly well maintained and set up for backpackers, from beautiful campsites complete with wooden tent platforms, to bear boxes & poles. All the campsites had a covered area for cooking and one had a little cabin for communal cooking/hanging out. I believe there were only 2 other groups on the trail at the same time as us, but you would really only encounter folks at the campsites; we could hike many hours without seeing anyone.

To see the trail profile, check out this link
And here is a map

The 1st leg of the trip was Juneau to Skagway via small (too small for my taste) plane. We spent the night in Skagway, where we watched the requisite bear safety video at the trail center and then enjoyed a pub crawl.



Day 1 was a long 12 mile trek, without much elevation gain. We stayed at Sheep camp, where there was a nice ranger to tell us about what to expect for the next day (considered the hardest leg) and settled in, looking forward to climbing the Pass.



Day 2 (8 miles) started bright an early at 6:30 am, in order to assure that everyone was up and over the Chilkoot Pass before there was significant warming of the snow (read avalanche danger). It was amazing to think about the gold miners hauling all their supplies over the Pass (they did use pack animals and sleds w/ a winch system of course, but they carried a lot of weight on their backs as well) Just below the Summit there is an area called the Scales; anyone going over the pass would have to stop here and weigh their gear to make sure that they had the requisite 1-year supply of 1000 pounds (they made 20 to 30 trips) They were forced to leave some behind if loads got too heavy. Next was the "Golden Staircase" to climb over the Pass; not a staircase at all, mind you, but a huge chute of boulders. At the top we were treated to gorgeous views, the Canadian flag at the Ranger station and some very cold temps!




We trekked for a few more hours through some gorgeous scenery; a wide bowl with snow-covered peaks all around. We had lunch in the most perfect setting, and then trekked on to finish at Happy Camp. At Happy Camp we met some Canadian hikers who had done the trail 4 times and said we lucked out with the weather. They had encountered rain every time they had done the trip. We were very grateful.







Day 3 we hiked 8.5 miles to Bare Loon Lake, despite Ranger warnings of a Brown bear having been spotted. On the way we visited Lindeman City which had been the end of the hike for most of the stampeders. The tent city was transient "home" to 4000 prospectors who would camp here long enough to build boats which would haul their goods across Lake Lindeman to Lake Bennett and into the Yukon River.





Day 4: A very leisurely 4 mile walk to our trail end at Bennett, B.C. to catch the Yukon/White Pass train back to Skagway. We got rained on a bit on the last day, but I dont think any of us minded much. In fact, I dont think we were ready for the trip to end. The train took us over the Yukon Pass. It was a stunning train ride despite the low clouds we encountered for most of the journey.







Once back in Skagway, we congratulated ourselves on completing the trek by drinking many beer at the local brewery! Zoltan, Kristin, Amy and Tara headed back to Juneau by plane and Mike and I stayed another night in Skagway, choosing to head back to Juneau by ferry the next day. We enjoyed the V.I.P. treatment only given to daughters of favorite retired ferry captains (thanks, Dad) and Mike was thrilled to spend time on the bridge with Captain Acter and the crew.

Overall, an amazing backpacking experience. I think we would all agree that we would do it again!

I heart Bartells

Today I was reminded that it really is the small things in life that can sometimes make me happy. The perfect example is my love for Bartells Drug store. I cant explain the phenomenon, but when I enter one of the many Seattle locations of "your friendly neighborhood drug store since 1890", it is impossible for me to feel sad, angry or irritable at the world outside. Maybe its the friendly red vest-clad clerks who always greet me kindly, or the sparkling clean & organized shelves, that aren't too high as to make a short person feel claustrophobic. Perhaps it is the attentive, though not too attentive staff (they exhibit the perfect degree of helpfulness; they ask if they can help you, and even walk you to the aisle in which your desired item can be found, but don't hover), or the fact that they ALWAYS call an extra clerk if there are more than 2 people waiting in any one line.

When Bartells opened a new store in my neighborhood I was there on opening day (ok, I did not actually plan that, it was serendipitous), and I was one of the first to enter the store. The new employees all seemed so happy to be there, I can only imagine that the Bartells family treats all their employees well, which makes me love the store even more. I think the clerk might have thought me a bit strange when I told her how thrilled I was that they had moved into this, my, neighborhood! But if she thought I was a freak, she hid her feelings, asked my name and told me to come back soon.

This blog is not the first avenue for the declaration of my love for Bartells. I've told numerous friends over the years and my confession always gets a giggle. But I know Im part of something bigger- Ive heard the commercials of the other Fans O Bartells, the spots where they find a happy shopper in an aisle and ask them to describe why they love shopping at Bartells. I dream that someday, I can join the ranks of my radio comrades. Who will be laughing then?

Blogging = Yoga?

Had i known that this blogging thing was going to stress me out so much, I might not have started it. But, I thought, "I have interesting observations to write about, right?".. Surely a blog will be a great way to keep in touch with family, friends and just have the experience of writing, which in my past has been quite enjoyable. Here's the thing: Blogging has started to turn into a "should" that I put pressure on myself to do(hence, the referral to Yoga, another thing in my life that I feel I should do but cant quite commit to; a thing that should be fun and relaxing but becomes stressful!).

So, instead of waiting until I have some important life philosophy to share, or some exciting event to report on, Im just going to start writing about random daily things. Of course when that brilliant life observation needs to be shared, Ill be sure to do that too!

So, as proof of my new, relaxed, blogging self, I give you the above Blog.

Sasquatch 2008

Aaah, Memorial Day weekend. Time to reflect on the sacrifices of our veterans who died in battle... Or, for so many of us, a time to get drunk over a 3-day weekend! This year, Laura and I traveled to the Columbia River Gorge in George, Washington to attend the Sasquatch Music Festival, a 3-day event featuring 100's of bands.

As we've both had the experience of staying at the Gorge "campgrounds" in previous years (think camping in a huge open yard, with rows of cars/RVs/tents and over-flowing Port-a-potties) we decided that in our old age and wisdom we would forego the party-all-night scene and instead stay in Vantage, a little "town" across the Columbia River from the concert site, about 10 miles away.


We stayed in the Riverside "Resort", which proved to be quite an interesting camping experience. It was much quieter than the Gorge, but still afforded some of the interesting people watching experiences... visiting the facilities full of high school girls getting ready for a day on the river complete with full faces of makeup and using curling and flat irons to perfect their hairdos.. Seeing some of America's finest families stock up at the General Store on all the essentials (Pork Rinds, all other manner of processed foods known to Man) while decked out in their American flag tee shirts.. mingling with those fine Americans not at all concerned with rising gas prices or the Environment- cruising around in their big gas-guzzlers -- Hummers, jacked-up F150s -- hauling their kick ass speed boats and Sea Dos.. YEE HAW!! (see license plate below)


We spent Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday enjoying the beauty of the Gorge and some great bands. Their were 3 stages with bands playing most of the day. The main stage is in the most stunning setting, overlooking the river.

We hung out with friends Jean and her friend MJ visiting from Jersey, Glenn & Stacia and Amanda & Paul. People just literally hung out all day on the huge lawns in front of all the stages, eating all manner of Country-fair type food and drinking $12 beers!!

Some fantastic people watching ensued- people of all ages and styles, and on all manner of mind-altering substances. Sunsets were beautiful and the company was great. I saw a bunch of bands I had not seen before and then got to see some that I've always wanted to see. Sunday night ended with The Cure, a band I've loved since high school. Robert Smith, though a bit bloated, still has an amazing voice- it was quite an experience. Some other highlights of the weekend were Canadian sister act Tegan and Sara, The Seattle Hip Hop group Blue Scholars, and the politically charged Michael Franti & Spearhead.
Thanks, Laura, for making the trip up to the NW, and thanks for being part of a very memorable weekend.

Happy Mother's Day?

I know its a day late but I have a Mothers Day story to share. This is how my sister Lisa's Mothers Day started: She was woken up at about 9am yesterday by the sounds of her 2-year old son, Lucas (aka cutest-nephew-in-the-world), rustling around upstairs in his room. She also heard some distinct words coming from his mouth; "Eew, dirty. Icky. Dirty". So, Lisa walked upstairs to see what was up, only to find her son rubbing his hands all over the carpet. She flipped on the light and found out what "dirty" and "eew" had been referring to: the poop he had pulled out of his diaper! He discovered that it was actually kind of gross and so was trying, naturally, to get it off his hands and onto the carpet!



I know its hard to believe such a cute kid could do such a thing, but his Mom was cute too, and that didnt stop her from feeding poop to our Dad when she was her son's age...Ha Ha, I guess it runs in our family (though you wont hear me telling any of my own poop stories). Happy Mothers Day to All!!

Juneau Girls Reunion

One of my best friends since childhood is moving back to the States from Europe, where she has been living and raising her family for several years. A few weeks ago she came out for a visit and the rest of us (3 living here in Seattle and one in Montana) took the opportunity to turn it into a reunion.



Katie arrived on a Sunday and the following night we had a wonderful dinner with her family, the rest of the Girls + S.O.’s along with Katie’s mom, Karma (visiting from Bozeman) and Sarah’s parents, Karen and Dave, at the very family friendly Tutta Bella. Of course when we’re together, talk goes to all our memories of growing up in Juneau, and with the parents there it added to the reminiscing (ok, so perhaps some things we did as teenagers might be better forgotten, but there are parents to remind you of where you came from!)



Wednesday night, our dear Danielle arrived and the 5 Girls had to take the opportunity to go out for drinks. Oh, wait, did I say go OUT for drinks? Well, yes, there was that, but this party got started with Kristin passing around a KEG cup full of beer as we all drove to the airport to surprise Danielle. Then we were joined again by some of the S.O.s and Chris Anderson, another dear old friend from the AK, for drinks downtown. Man, was I cursing Katie all day the next day when I had to pretend to be sick (cough cough, sniffle sniffle) lest my co-workers discover that the real reason I slept during a morning break AND through my lunch was because my head felt like it was in a VICE. Thanks for encouraging me to drink that glass of champagne, Kate!!

A very special part of the week was having a slumber party at Sarah’s house on Friday night—Take out food, lounging in the PJs (no, boys, no naked pillow fights this time—but as I recall, very drunk Kristin and Katie DID do some air mattress wrestling, much to Sarah’s chagrin), and of course lots of talking, laughing, and crying late into the night!!! Sarah even arranged for her Dad to act as surprise Chef the next day and make us pancakes for breakfast, just like Old Times… what a treat!



The rest of our time together, we were able to go on some nice walks and hikes around town, and were able to check out Katie’s new hood (she will be moving to Queen Anne this Summer, only a 10 minute walk from ME!!!!).



Oh, I have to mention a special highlight for me (and I hope this earns me some points in the ‘favorite Auntie’ contest! Yes, Girls, of course there’s a contest!!!)……
Earlier in the week I called in sick (cough cough.. I know, I know, would’ve been better to call in Hungover after that Champagne, but who can predict when those nights are gonna happen?). Anyway, after enjoying my coffee-er-TheraFlu on the sofa Tuesday morning, I called Kate over at her hotel. My thought was that I would try to coordinate for a lunch date with Katie and Seth in between their morning and afternoon appointments. Instead, I was invited to go to the Seattle Center with Grandma Karma and Jackson (5) and Kari (2). Seemed harmless enough. As Ive told Katie several times, it really was my pleasure, but WOW did I get a taste of just how difficult it must be to have 2 little ones (Kristin, are you reading this??). We took 2 modes of transport to get to the Center. With little ones that’s no easy task (on the upside, we did get to ride the SLUT (South Lake Union Trolley—not its official name), and the Monorail. Then we had fun at the Center House at Seattle Center (Auntie Jennie, luckily having met the height requirements, got to ride lots of rides with the kids. One made me want to vomit, but I kept a brave face). In order to leave the rides, I believe I told Jackson that we could come back this Summer “anytime you want to”! (but he didn’t get anything in writing, so we’ll see). We followed up the Center House with the Children’s Museum, where I had to let go of my planning nature (“Let’s try to see all the exhibits, Kids!”) and allow things to flow (which meant spending nearly an hour in one exhibit where wiffle balls are blown through tubes using air.. Pretty cool). One of the highlights was feeding Katie’s kids ice cream for Lunch. Yah, being an Auntie is GREAT!



When Katie came to meet us at Westlake Mall I was about ready for my nap, with a much better appreciation for parenthood! I think the experience earned me some babysitting street cred and apparently Jackson did talk about me the rest of the week, which is good. (Favorite Auntie points, remember?) It’s a good thing that Kari is too young to remember that I put her shoes on the wrong feet and caused her to repeatedly fall while running down the hotel hallways- maybe we’ll tell her when she is a bit older).

Saying goodbye to both Kate and Danielle after the week was difficult, but we are all excited that Katie will be here in Seattle this Summer and hopefully now with 4 of us here, Danielle will make more frequent trips this way!

As the years go by, I feel more and more fortunate that I have these 4 women in my life; to support me in hard times, celebrate with me in good ones, and of course to remind me how really horrible my bangs were ‘back then’!! Most importantly, when Im with my friends I feel true unconditional love. Thanks, Ladies, for reminding me how lucky I am.

Spring in the San Juans

Mike and I went to visit the San Juans over the last weekend in March. We left Seattle on a Friday night and drove through the snow (and Everett traffic!) to get to Anacortes; a 90 mile journey that took us over 3 hours! We were relieved to make the 620pm ferry to the islands.

I am fortunate enough to have friends who own a cabin on Lopez island, so we were able to use that as our base for the weekend. We arrived at Michael and Bret's cabin with a bit of daylight left and were greeted by two deer, whose dinner we interrupted, and caught a glimpse of the Olympics in the distance from the cabin window. A lovely night of sitting by the fire, sipping beers and reading books followed.


In the morning, we rose early (by our standards) to head to Orcas, to do a bit of hiking. Skies were partly cloudy when we started the hike up Mt. Constitution from Moran State Park. About an hour into our 3 hour hike we hit show; about 5 inches of it.. We turned around before reaching the summit, due to having to make the ferry back to Lopez (one drawback of the San Juans before Summertime is fewer ferry options for inter-island travel), and realized later we were a very short and mostly flat hike from the top!! We only saw 2 hikers on the trek, and up at the top it was just us. The snow made everything so beautiful and peaceful. Mike really loves his new camera, and got some great snow shots! On the way back to the ferry we went to a few little shops on Orcas, including a cool bookstore and a bike shop.

That night back at the cabin, I made... drum roll please... dinner! Nothing fancy, but we had a lovely dinner (+ more beer) and enjoyed the quiet of the cabin.

On Sunday we slept in and then woke up to a hail storm.. We made a big breakfast and stayed in our PJs until well after noon! We did lots of reading and relaxing (Jennie reading, Mike relaxing- read napping-) Then we headed down to a park where we sipped our coffees while enjoying the beach, before heading to the ferry, bound for Anacortes.


The weekend reminded me how important it is to get away. I read an entire book, and Mike and I spent quality time together without the distractions of school, work, TV, the computer etc. Sometimes packing and planning for time away can be a pain, but it is so worth it to be far from the hurried pace of the city, and forget about lists of 'things to do' that sometimes turn weekends into just an extension of the work week.. I came back feeling truly refreshed.

East of the Mountains

My cousin Anje and I headed east of the mountains this weekend to visit our Aunt Barb and Uncle Rich, who live in Carlton, a little town (think post office, church, not much else) in the Methow Valley near Twisp and Winthrop. We headed out Saturday morning after a nice breakfast in Seattle, for what should have been a 4 hour scenic drive. Thinking "Ive been East of the mountains many times before, I know the way", I neglected to take one more look at my Google Map directions, and Anje and I (between me talking on the phone and her taking a much needed snooze) managed to drive 80 extra miles on I-90-- all the way to Moses Lake. I believe it was Anj who noticed that we were at mile 185 when the directions said we should have made the turn northward at mile 85! OOPS. The gas station attendant was kind enough in asking me if I needed assistance, as I shamefully gazed at the WA State map (the map I had to purchase from the store, not having one in the car of course-- OOPS again). He showed us a 'short cut' which basically just meant we didnt have to backtrack 80 miles so we were relieved, though I stayed embarrassed for another hour or so.

While we waited to purchase the map and some Pringles a nice man with an even nicer mullet asked the attendant "They lost? Where they going?". The attendant replied "Carlton", to which mullet man replied "By choice??".. We were undeterred... and on the Road Again.

We finally made it to Barb and Rich's house at around 3:30 (5.5 hours on the road!) and felt relaxed immediately. They have a beautiful house in a perfect spot right on the Methow river. The house has big picture windows and a deck and sits just above the river-- Perfect.

Rich had just returned from fly fishing in Argentina and didnt seem annoyed at all that his wife had invited house guests for the Easter weekend :) as they both greeted us warmly and Rich started making Martinis. For the rest of our short stay the hospitality continued-- with drinks, wonderful food (oh, sure, I eat steak and homemade cherry pie at home all the time!!), and touring Twisp and Winthrop (including visits to Cinnamon Twisp -a well-known bakery- and the humble Catholic church in Twisp for Easter Sunday). We went on a snowy hike, saw cows and horses and even watched a deer swim down the river.

This little piece of Eastern Wa. is a different world, and I was really happy to be in it. No traffic, no pretension, and people seem to be relaxed and really enjoying life at a slower pace than we seem to believe is so necessary in the city. Of course the best part was being with family and having time to reminisce about the past and share hopes for the future.

Barb and Rich kept apologizing that we came to visit during a 'bad' time; after most of the snow is gone (but not all of it!) and before flowers start to bloom; when its still too cold to do much hiking or enjoy a swim in the river.... But, I assured them that Ill be back soon, armed with my hiking boots or my bike.... Or.... perhaps just ready to sit on the porch swing or sip a martini in the hottub!!! I cant wait.

Joining the 21st Century

I was just thinking how 10 years ago I could never have imagined that I would be "blogging". When I graduated from college in 1995 I didnt even have an EMAIL account! (I am old).. So, now its time to start getting up to speed. Next goal: get some photos on here!! Enjoy, Mom and Dad (and anyone else who cares)..

This weekend Anje is coming to visit from S.F. and we'll be heading to Eastern Washington to see our Auntie Barb in Carlton. Cant wait to get out of the Seattle rain and enjoy the Spring weather East of the Mtns..